Bronwyn is a current senior at Scripps College in California. She is majoring in Politics with a focus in International Relations and Americans Politics, and is minoring in Philosphy. During high school, Bronwyn became interested in social justice and began to educate herself about women’s issues and the effects of horrific labor practices on communities of color. At Scripps College, her classes have focused on how global development affects human rights and understanding how to use human rights to create positive change. Bronwyn studied abroad in Copenhagen, Denmark and took classes about gendered perspectives on human rights and humanitarian law and armed conflict. She is very adamant about continuing to educate herself on social justice issues and continuing to understand the intersection between different forms of oppression.
It is easier than ever to get the latest trends quickly and inexpensively. A designer dress that would normally cost hundreds of dollars can be recreated using cheaper fabric and mass produced within a few days of the original look’s debut.
Zara, H&M, Forever 21, and Fashion Nova are just a few fast fashion giants that are popular for their low prices and trendy apparel. But how do these brands produce such cheap clothing in such a short timeframe? The answer: They don’t pay their workers. That’s a staple of fast fashion.
How is Fast Fashion so Fast and Cheap?
Fast fashion is called “fast” for a reason. Fast fashion sweatshop workers are forced to work overtime and around the clock to meet the demands of the market and keep up with fashion trends. During peak fashion season, factory workers work 14 to 16 hours a day, 7 days a week on average. On top of grueling work hours, garment workers are also exposed to hazardous work conditions without safety measures. These workers are often women and can be trapped in buildings with no ventilation and often endure physical abuse. One of the most tragic parts of the fast fashion supply chain is the amble use of child labor. The International Labour Organization states that there are an estimated “170 million children are engaged in child labour” in the fashion industry. Since children are smaller and nimbler, factories use them for more precise, labor-intensive work.
Brands like Forever 21, Zara, H&M, and Fashion Nova take clothing designs with high retail prices and redesign them without famous logos and with cheaper materials. The clothes are made to be “quick, cheap, and disposable.” Most of the items are made unsustainably, releasing massive amounts of carbon emissions, contributing to air pollution, and consuming enormous amounts of water. These brands are able to keep their prices down because they pay their workers next to nothing.
For example, Forbes has reported that Zara’s factories in Brazil are “slave-like.” In 2011, it was discovered that 90% of Zara’s Brazilian production “was found to have subcontracted work to a factory employing migrant workers from Bolivia and Peru in sweatshop conditions.” Additionally, reports shared that these workers “were found to be working 16 to 19 hours day with little time off and in debt to their traffickers.”
Speaking on fast fashion, Fashionopolis author Dana Thomas remarks, “I find it horrifying, and can’t believe that we still allow—and abet—it.” She adds, “The global fashion supply chain is in essence a corporate form of colonialism, and the underpaid and badly-treated workers are just one step up from slaves. Indeed, there is slavery in the supply chain, and prison labor. The mind reels.”
How Do Fast Fashion Brands Get Away with This?
Fast fashion relies on contracting and subcontracting. These companies depend on having an indirect business model where they do not own their factories and can therefore claim they are not directly responsible for the garment workers. Subcontracts are useful to large companies because they can deflect blame onto these middle management companies that hire factories to do their manufacturing.
When Zara was exposed for having inhumane conditions in their contracted factories, the company argued that they are not doing anything wrong, just the factories are. This is a flawed argument because the company directly benefits from underpaid labor in other countries which keeps their prices low. Since they are not responsible for the workers and the factories are not in countries with strong worker protection laws (such as the United States and most European countries), the workers are not adequately protected. This results in workers who can be hired or fired at any time and who are not legally accounted for. Sweatshops produce the labor that is required to make and assemble fabrics, but the final touches are placed in Western countries so brands can claim the products were “Made in the U.S.” or “Made in Europe.”
The Takeaway:
All of these conditions are a product of modern day slavery fueled by consumers’ constant need for new clothes. If we stop supporting fast fashion brands, we can make a huge difference in the lives of millions of garment workers. Instead, re-wear and repurpose the clothes you already have, buy second hand, swap pieces with friends, and support ethical apparel companies. Do your research before purchasing new clothes, and stay away from brands avoided by slave-free shoppers.
If you are interested in learning about fast fashion around the world, you can read about fast fashion in China here and fast fashion in Bangladesh here.
We also recommend goodonyou.eco to help you evaluate the brands you buy from. This website gives you a breakdown on how companies treat their workers, the companies’ labor conditions, and the environmental impact of those companies.
Meet the Artist: Adrian Glasmyre is a double major in Digital Communications and Art at Lebanon Valley College. Since her freshman year, Adrian has been passionate about using her art to raise awareness on fast fashion and human rights. She is proud to create graphics that educate others on these important issues.
[…] International Labour Organisation stated that approximately 170 million children and exploited by child labour in the fashion […]
[…] to the research done by Stop Modern Slavery. org, garment workers can work up to 16-hour days, in extremely hazardous conditions. Regulations vary […]