Unethical labor conditions in garment supply chains have long been ignored or simply unknown to the general population. One devastating event in Bangladesh in 2013 forced the world to pay attention. The Rana Plaza disaster, which Amnesty International called “the most shocking recent example of business-related human rights abuse,” brought the harsh realities faced by garment workers into the international spotlight.
The Day that Changed Everything
One might have trouble imagining that the seemingly mundane Rana Plaza building, housing a bank, five garment factories, and everyday apartments, would, in less than 24 hours, be the site of one of the deadliest building collapses in history, as well as the deadliest ever among garment workers. However, the very day before the collapse, large structural cracks in the building were broadcast on local television. At this point, the businesses on the lower floors were evacuated immediately, but despite the danger being known, the workers who worked the garment factories on the upper floors were ordered to return to work the next day, with many being threatened with being fired or having up to three days’ wages withheld for each day missed.
“We knew that this building would collapse. But we had to go because the managers said they will not give us our salary,” said Reba Sikder, a survivor of Rana Plaza who was eighteen years old at the time of the collapse. “We need to feed ourselves. So that is why we had to go.”
According to workers, employers threatened them with the loss of a month’s pay if they refused to return after the cracks were revealed. This pressure was especially strong since many were already paid so little that they had to take out loans simply to survive. “I was making—including my overtime—$90 a month, but I had to work 8am to 10pm, sometimes overnight. That was seven days a week, thirty days a month,” added Sikder. The employers, in turn, were motivated by notoriously strict production deadlines in the fast fashion industry. The result is that, at 8:57 am on April 24th, 2013, the building collapsed, killing 1,134 people and injuring 2,600 more.
“Darkness engulfed the entire place with thick clouds of debris. I heard screams around me. My heart started pounding,” said Mahmudur, a quality inspector of Ethar Tex Ltd on the fifth floor. “I lay down near a pillar, thinking that perhaps I was going to die. We were being roasted inside.”
The Aftermath
In the aftermath of the tragedy, the initial response seemed promising. Bangladesh passed the Accord on Fire and Building Safety, “an independent, legally binding agreement between brands and trade unions to work towards a safe and healthy garment and textile industry in Bangladesh,” and the Rana Plaza Arrangement raised $30 million to compensate survivors. Sadly, 10 years later, more than half of the victims remained unemployed due to the injuries they sustained.
Despite the early progress made, a study run revealed that a shocking 93% of Bangladeshi garment factory workers fear for their long-term ability to work and health. 60% did not believe their workplaces had adequate fire prevention measures, with 19% reporting that their workplaces lacked firefighting equipment and 23% saying there were no fire exits.
Researcher Diana Quiroz found similar problems in the modern Bangladeshi textile industry. She reported that skeletal and muscular diseases are nearly universal among workers who are forced to sit in the same position doing the same task for hours in factories lacking air circulation and sunlight. To add insult to injury, she also revealed that, despite the physical torments, “the factories still underpay, overwork and offer no employment security to the workers.” So, not only are they not compensated properly for their debilitating labor, but they cannot even rest assured that their job is secure. Finally, the Clean Clothes Campaign pointed out that even these merger protections only apply to garment factories, which is only the final step of the manufacturing process. “This means that workers deeper in the supply chains of existing Accord signatory brands could also be risking their lives while toiling in textile mills and dyeing facilities without the same safety measures being taken,” it noted.
The Change:
Despite the many shortcomings of the response to the collapse, the true changes brought about by the disaster were in raising awareness of the inhumane conditions pervading the international garment industry. The reaction was, to use a word, massive. Pressure came down on the fashion and garment industry from multiple world leaders, including UK members of parliament, the European Commissioner for Trade, and Pope Francis. As for grassroots actions, there were mass protests against retailers who used Bangladeshi textile suppliers by citizens around the world. The newfound public interest turned into a virtuous cycle as new research into the Bangladeshi textile industry further illuminated the plight of workers in the country and the role of international brands in creating the disaster.
In addition to catalyzing the fight against modern day slavery, this attention led to concrete successes in redressing the wrongs of Rana Plaza. $30 million was raised to compensate victims, and, despite it not being the be-all and end-all solution, the Fire and Building Safety accord is legally binding and signed by over 200 companies.
But perhaps the most active responder to the disaster has been Bangladesh itself. The disaster prompted large worker protests, calling for better pay and safer conditions. The Bangladeshi government passed a law requiring government inspection of garment factories and put 41 people responsible for the disaster on trial for charges of corruption and murder (including the building owner, who stated that the building was safe after the cracks were exposed).
That is why Rana Plaza is important, not because of the money raised or for any particular piece of legislation, but because it raised awareness. It forced the world to look at the disaster and ask: Why did 1,100 people die? And in letting the world know what was happening in Bangladesh, it showed people what was happening everywhere, and thus it paved the way for action to be taken on issues everywhere.
Kurt Sell is a graduate of Temple University’s history and political science programs with a passion for research and writing. He believes in educating the public through well-researched, well-written, and entertaining content while educating himself through the process of research and creation. He hopes to help the inquisitive and curious through the creation of quality research pieces since he believes we all must continually learn about ourselves and the world around us.
Featured Image: Amnesty International